Samaya x Jackson Yip
THE CALM BETWEEN TWO STORMS
50 years ago, four Harvard students attempted to climb Alaska's Tokositna Glacier. In May 2023, Jackson Yip and his friend Mike flew to the same destination to attempt the Harvard route to Mount Huntington. For Samaya, Jackson looks back on their expedition.
What inspired you to make this legendary ascent?
![]()
Jackson Yip: On my first expedition to Alaska, I had the opportunity to attempt this famous ascent (WI3+ M6 C1 VI 1200m). I asked my friend Mike, a seasoned Sierra Nevada alpine guide, if he was interested in this 1200-meter route. He immediately agreed and we started planning. After months of preparation, the day of departure arrived and with it, the clear weather we'd been hoping for to get to the glacier. We were in a completely different world, with ice and black-and-gold granite surrounding us. The next morning, we were ready to leave camp and walk to the icefall to begin our first attempt on the route.
How did your first attempt go?
![]()
JY: On our first attempt, the weather window was short, so we had to move fast. In four hours, we reached the top of the access couloir. Mike took the lead and by five o'clock we were starting the first pitch of the spiral, a two-pitch mixed climbing crux that Mike would easily complete. He delicately placed his spikes and ice tools in the tiny holds, expertly guiding his body with every step. He gave a slight hoot when he succeeded in a difficult move, and a big hoot when he reached the belay. Once we reached the summit, stones began to cascade down the small dihedrals on the west face, due to the warm temperatures. After a 40-metre abseil, we dug a space in a snow-covered ledge to spend the night, while the walls resolidified.
Were you able to continue the climb the next morning?
JY: The next day, we found ourselves in a snowstorm with no visibility. We prepared our ropes for the descent. Mike launched himself into the steep snow and I followed. Five hours later, we were under the bergschrund and six hours later, we were back at camp where we would face a storm that would last four days, leaving us with a meter of fresh snow on our tents. We gathered our wits and strength and tried once again to advance along the route, but we had chest-deep unconsolidated snow and dangerous conditions in the access couloir, hampering our progress. Once again, we pushed on as far as we could before conditions forced us to retreat to the cirque below, with bad weather forecast for the next 24 hours.
You had to leave after this last attempt. How did you feel then?
JY: We still wonder what we could have done to reach our goal. Although we didn't reach the summit, we came back alive after having had the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful places in the world. Today, I'm just looking for ways to go back and try this jewel of mountaineering, consider other routes and feel that wonder again.
