SAMAYA x SÉBASTIEN MAFLIN

 

 

Sébastien Maflin, climber, photographer and videographer, set off for Madeira in November 2023 to complete a solo, totally autonomous crossing of the region. A fall halfway across the route forced him to turn back. In this article, Sébastien shares with us how he organized his trek and bivouacs, and his vision of failure.

 

"I'd spotted a trail that runs from the north of Madeira down to the south-east of Lille. I redesigned this trail to make sure I didn't follow the trail paths, so I could be on my own. My route took me over peaks and coastlines and through areas with very different climates and atmospheres. From the seaside to paradisiacal black sand beaches, from very humid areas close to the jungle to much more arid zones: I wanted to cross it all.

 

There's what's known as the Banana Line, the zone above which nothing grows and it's cold. It's quite peculiar because below, you're in a tropical climate, and once you've crossed this cloud barrier, you find yourself on ridges awash with absolutely incredible sunsets, with the impression of floating mountains.

 

I left in total autonomy. I had a filter pump so I could drink the water from the rivers, I had all my food rations with me, my comforter, my mattress, my tent and my cameras and videos. It all fit into my 16-kilogram bag, the lightest I'd ever been. The lightness of the Samaya INSPIRE2 tent was greatly appreciated.

 

I'd get up when the sun woke me up, and after a quick breakfast, I'd walk all morning, without a break, until lunch. In the afternoon, I'd set off again until I found a place to pitch my bivouac. I started to look at the areas with the least relief on my map, keeping a 3-kilometre margin and leaving out any segments that were too steep or too windy. The Samaya INSPIRE2 doesn't take up much space, making it easy to find the right spot. I was able to sleep in the hollow of a valley, in the heart of a forest and at the top of a pass where I had to endure a storm of wind and rain. I was impressed to have such a good, dry night.

Being alone didn't bother me at all - on the contrary, it's what I was looking for. On the other hand, I was surprised to find myself in the stressful situation of running out of water. The rivers shown on my maps weren't necessarily as accessible as they looked. On several occasions, rivers were actually blocked by rocks, making it impossible to fill my water bottle. I had to deal with this daily stress that I hadn't imagined.

 

At the end of the third day, I slipped at the end of the ascent of Pico do Ariero. I tried to balance myself, but the weight of my rucksack carried me off and my knee twisted, causing inflammation of the ligament.

 

When I got up the next morning, I couldn't stand on my leg. I had to go back down by shifting my weight onto my poles.

 

I thought I'd wait a few days and see if I could pick up where I left off, but it was impossible. Sometimes you just have to say stop.

 

It's all part of this kind of project. You have to avoid questioning yourself too much, because these situations happen, especially in the mountains, and you have to make the best of them. Frustration gets the better of you at the time, but it's important to take it philosophically.